As a die-hard weekend striper warrior and being frustrated by the local waters crapping out too early, my attention was peaked by a past article in Salt Water Sportsman (December 2000), about the great striper fishery at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay from the Cape Charles, Virginia area. Being an avid eel fisherman, I was drawn to the focus of this feature, which was eeling around the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel.

Further research indicated that I could tow my 16-˝ foot skiff down there and stay, fish, launch and lunch quite economically.

The following is a New Englander's (Natick, MA) description as to how to commute to some of the most incredible "Moby Striper" action I have ever witnessed. This all happens between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

On Saturday, November 24, 2001 I departed from my home in Natick, MA with my rig, a Ford van towing a well-equipped 16-˝ foot aluminum skiff. After some post-Thanksgiving traffic delays via I-84 to NY and I-87 to the George Washington Bridge, the New Jersey Turnpike was a breeze all the way down to Wilmington, DE. From Wilmington down the new Route 1 South expressway until it segues onto Route13 down toward Cape Charles. Please note that Cape Charles County happens to be one of, if not the poorest counties in Virginia, so don't be expecting a "Cape Cod" type environment. The people, however, are true salt of the earth, who will drop everything to give you a hand and handle.

My destination was the Edgewood Motel and Chris' Bait & Tackle, which are one and the same. They are without a doubt the heart of the Cape Charles fishery. Owners Chris and Mark Snook have an extensively equipped tackle shop and motel catering to fisherman with information, tackle, official weigh-in station, cleaning stations, temporary boat parking, temporary licenses, charter information, fish freezing, ice ( two freezers including blocks), eels, and all remarkably reasonable! Don't forget to pick up a Captain Seagull chart of the area, which tells it all.

As a back up, there is Days Inn one mile down Route 13, and a campground at Kiptopeke State Park.

As I mentioned, this southeastern shore of the Chesapeake is quite undeveloped and rural. The key to the Bridge-Tunnel fishery is The Kiptopeke State Park, which has an exceptional four rig launch, lots of parking and a camping area with several acres, which during my visit this time of year was being barely utilized (fee required).

Again, you're at the end of the Cape, so lodging choices are simple. There are the Edgewood Motel, Days Inn or the campground at Kiptopeke State Park.

Fishing for Butterballs can work up an appetite, and while choices are somewhat limited, quality abounds just a mile or two back up Route 13. Most unique is "Sting Rays" which is best described as a cross between a triple AAA restaurant and a fast food joint. It is a legend in the area, so bring your appetite. Also, some of the rooms at the Edgewood feature refrigerators and outside grills.

Let's go fishing!

As part of my preparations for the trip, I contacted Captain Bill Reynolds who specializes in nighttime eel fishing. Capt. Bill, a 27-year veteran of the Coast Guard, is truly one of the most knowledgeable watermen in the Chesapeake Bay region. Not only is Capt. Bill an expert charter skipper in great demand, he is a one-man chamber of commerce for the Cape Charles area. His accounts of flounder, red drum and spadefish activity in the Chesapeake Bay are enough to make your beard grow upwards.

Shortly after checking in at the Edgewood and getting settled in, I met a couple of fellow fisherman from South Carolina. They had already been there several days. One of them, in his thick southern drawl so different from the Bpston accent I am used to hearing, admonished me not to forget my fliers. After several minutes of trying to figure out what he meant… kite fishing… pliers… he finally said "No, no, no! fliers, ya know, the things ya'll shoot in the air in an emergency… fliers!" I assured him that I had a relatively new Olin flare kit, thanks to my good friend Bob Barton who recently sold his boat. On my final day of fishing, the Virginia Marine Police were inspecting at the dock. After checking on all my equipment, they asked to see my flares. Upon unsealing the kit, the flares were found to be outdated, resulting in a $60 fine.

After flopping around for a day or two getting acclimated to the bay and weather, Capt. Bill and I were able to hook up for a night charter. We headed out to the Shadows of the bridge and within five minutes my eel was inhaled by a 22-pound striper (now called "rock"). In the next three hours, Capt. Bill and I contacted ten rocks, the best being a 28-pound Butterball. Captain Bill called this a slow night as he has easily caught 40 rocks up to 45 pounds in the same time period. Also of interest is that the limit is two fish per person, per day, and that an extensive commercial harvest is under way at the same time.

Another great source of charter and information is Capt. Jack Eudy who happened to be rooming next to me at the Edgewood. Capt. Jack corrected me on my eel presentation that was key in making my week. Capt. Jack hails from North Carolina but works out of Cape Charles during the Butterball season.

After meeting with Capt. Bill and Capt. Jack I was finally on track. Thanks to my new Standard Horizon chart plotter and the Chesapeake entrance chip that I acquired from the C-Map people, I was able to fearlessly negotiate the thick fog of the next few days, and do some serious fishing around the bridge piers and observe the local sharpies land some mind-boggling rocks-in broad daylight!

While I will admit that challenging a new body of water in my 16 ˝ foot skiff was at first intimidating, it became apparent that this part of the Chesapeake was far less challenging than my usual haunt, Buzzards Bay, out of Westport Mass. Although the smallest rig around, I became comfortable in that my goal was to fish the bridge piers. A southerly breeze with fog worked in my favor, especially with the lack of pots so predominant in the Northeast. There were a few other skiffs worked by locals, but the predominant rigs were 19 to 23 footers.

On one particular day, I was able to negotiate the fog perfectly to the bridge to find myself alone. While working the piers, I landed a matched pair of 27-pounders within 45 minutes. These fish were clearly as advertised, the well-fed Thanksgiving Butterballs.

An interesting bonus of staying at the Edgewood is that Chris' was staging a tournament and as my room was opposite the official scale, I was witness to the parade of weigh-ins, especially during late afternoons. The number of 25 to 35 pounders measured was eye-popping to say the least. The weigh-ins and drive-bys continued through the night, so earplugs are a must if you expect to be in shape for the next morning.

Finally, be reminded that these fish are migrating through the area at a phenomenal rate and that 40 and 50 pounders are not the exception but the rule. Gear should be in tiptop shape and 50 to 60 pound shock leaders are needed, especially around the bridge piers if you're looking to catch rather than tell yarns.

Also on my next trip, I will be bringing a supply of sea worms, as I suspect that the Tube N Worm could be as deadly as the eel, especially during the day.

Total mileage for the trip was 540 miles one way with 240 of those miles being from Wilmington to Cape Charles.

If Thanksgiving Butterball stripers (Rockfish) happen to scratch that holiday itch, I recommend that Santa hop in his sleigh and head due south 540 miles to Cape Charles, Virginia for the ultimate in tackle busting Thanksgiving Butterballs. And… don't forget your fliers!